WJ Drinks: Frederic Esmonin

We've first gotten to know Frederic in 2014, the estate solid line ups of Domaine-own plots including Mazis- and Ruchottes-Chambertin – as well as Lavaut Saint-Jacques and Estournelles-Saint-Jacques. Yes Frederic is the cousin of the other Sylvie Esmonin. The estate has only 4 hectares and his wines still mostly unknown outside of France!

Neal Martin, Vinous.com on 2017 Vintage

Aromatics are generally heightened, particularly towards floral aromas such as pressed violets or iris. Often that freshness manifests citrus flavours, sorbet-like traits of orange zest or blood orange that infuse the fruit. The 2017s are unquestionably fresh. Acidities are normal, with pH levels of 3.30 to 3.50, so they feel lively and tensile, as great Pinot Noir should. The days of over-extraction and pushing the wines too hard thankfully lie in the 1990s and early 2000s. 

Nearly all wines reached phenolic ripeness by early September and I cannot recall a single cuvée that exhibits greenness. Generally, tannin profiles are fine yet provide ample frame for the fruit. Think of them as having the carbon frame of a high-end racing bicycle: strong without weight.

 

One of the most famous villages in Gevrey-, the Clos Prieur!

 

The Cuvées :

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos Prieur"
" The perfumed essence of red cherry, currant and soft earth scents gives way to sleek and delicious though less rich flavors that also offer good punch, detail and minerality though not quite the same overall depth. To be sure, this is a competent Gevrey villages that should drink well young if desired. " 
AM 88

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Jouises Vieilles Vignes"
" Here the aromatic profile is similar to that of the Clos Prieur with the additions of hints of lavender and a curious touch of talcum powder character. Once again there is good vibrancy to the slightly bigger and richer flavors that lack just a bit of stuffing on the lingering finish. This is certainly very pretty but it's not especially deep. " 
AM 88

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin "Estournelles St. Jacques", 1er Cru
" A fresh and decidedly more elegant nose reflects high-toned notes of pomegranate, red cherry and a lovely blend of floral and forest floor scents. There is a lovely sleekness to the delicious, caressing and well-detailed flavors that deliver slightly better depth and persistence on the stony finish where a touch of wood influence arises. This is quite good and worthy of consideration.. " 
AM 91, Outstanding


2017 MAZY-CHAMBERTIN, GRAND CRU
* 33 ha of 40+ year old vines
" An overtly floral-inflected nose reveals notes of dark currant along with wisps of earth, spice and the sauvage. There is very good volume and richness with slightly better mid-palate concentration to the relatively powerful flavors that culminate in a firm and lingering if mildly rustic finale. " 
AM 92

2017 RUCHOTTES-CHAMBERTIN, GRAND CRU
* from a .52 ha parcel of 50+ year old vines
" This is the first wine in the range to display reductive notes and while I expect that they are largely due to the very recent bottling, I would suggest decanting this if you're going to crack a bottle in the next 12 months or so. Otherwise there is once again an attractive sleekness to the precise and vibrant medium weight flavors that brim with minerality that really comes to the fore on the impressively complex and persistent finish that is somewhat linear at present. I would expect this to flesh out with bottle age. " 
AM 92